Jingmai is the second mountain I visited, back in 2010. I made a few friends there, people seemed especally friendly and open-minded there. It had the reputation to be a particularly beautiful mountain and attracted visitors early on.
Back in the day, it was a hotspot on the pilgrimage of your average tea boss: a guy in his forties, owning a factory in Shenzhen or doing real estate in Guangzhou, covered in expensive jewellery, a preference for the local liquor than tea, a taste for mild adventure, tea is a side hustle for an overdue mid-life crisis. The farmer greets you, a chicken is killed, they show take you around the tea gardens, the gushu is brewed, taidi is brought up, suspicion arises, a bottle of baijiu solves everything.
But I was only twenty, and I came by bus, I didn't even have much money to buy tea. I got to build a different rapport with the locals, and made a couple of friends in Jingmai. I would visit the mountain, and my new friends would come to my place in Jinghong where I rent a small flat. Eventually, I met Yubai, we got along very well, a little too well...
I met Yubai for the first time at the local Karaoke in Jingmai, we exchanged a few pleasantries and I soon realized she was quite smart. We got to meet the next day and she explained how she was going to build her tea factory in her house. I just felt at that time that we were on the same road, trying to make sense of this world, so we held hands and never let it go, we chose to walk through this journey together.
Jingmai is where our tea business started. Yubai started making tea by herself in 2011. She had briefly been taught by friends, but everyone was trying to understand how to make good tea in the wok. Most of the villagers hadn't made tea in twenty years: the production had been centralized in the 1990s, the farmers would just pick the tea and deliver the fresh leaves to big processing units. It was the golden age of Pu-erh tea, when we spent nights discussing every aspect of tea making with friends, when even the basics had yet to be defined.
A big part of our tea knowledge was created in Jingmai, through our own experiments and exchange with other people. Making tea is a craft, there is only so much you can learn in the books. Knowing the theoretical underlying can give you an advantage but can only complement hands-on practice.
Jingmai is the birthplace of my wife, and the cradle of our business. We've tasted more teas from Jingmai than any other place, therefore, we might be a bit biased. It is hard to define a singular profile because the mountain has a lot of micro-terroirs. It might be the case in all the other mountains, but we've only explored this one at the garden level.
The best tea grows in Da Ping Zhang, the relatively flat top of the mountain. It seems to be the largest ancient tea garden in the world, a very unique landscape. Its tea can be bitter, but not always. It oftent produces a rich orchid aroma that makes the reputation of Jingmai. It feels strong and juicy, without being too thick nor too light. It really is a balanced tea, a general overview of what good Pu-erh tea can be.
Jingmai became a UNESCO world heritage site in 2023, representing the tea culture of Yunnan, its ethnic diversity and preserved environment. Since then, more and more tourists have come to the mountain, it can feel a bit crowded during the public holidays. Unexpectedly, most of those new tourists are not particularly interested in the tea culture, it is a more casual audience coming here nowadays. Thankfully, Jingmai has kept its charm and good tea for the true tea lovers.